Báo Thanh Niên: Lưu luyến 'hương cốm' làng Nông Xá

Ít ai biết ở làng Nông Xá (xã Tân Tiến, huyện An Dương, thành phố Hải Phòng), nơi nổi tiếng về làm bánh đa, còn có một nghề truyền thống lâu...

Ít ai biết ở làng Nông Xá (xã Tân Tiến, huyện An Dương, thành phố Hải Phòng), nơi nổi tiếng về làm bánh đa, còn có một nghề truyền thống lâu đời, đó là nghề làm cốm mộc.

Bài viết này thuộc danh mục:✅ Ẩm thực, được chúng tôi tổng hợp từ báo Thanh Niên, nguồn bài: http://thanhnien.vn/doi-song/luu-luyen-huong-com-lang-nong-xa-1003189.html

Ông Bùi Văn Tuyển thường ngồi liên tục nhiều giờ để làm cốm - Ảnh Lê Tân

Theo ông Nguyễn Ngọc Hà, Chủ tịch Hội Nông dân xã Tân Tiến, thì nghề làm cốm ở làng Nông Xá tồn tại gần trăm năm nay, tập trung chủ yếu ở thôn Đông và thôn Nam. Lúc hưng thịnh nhất, cả làng đều làm cốm. Đến nay, vì nhiều lý do, chỉ còn 3, 4 hộ làm nghề. Trong đó, có gia đình các ông Bùi Văn Tuyển (60 tuổi) và Nguyễn Văn Đê (58 tuổi), đều ở thôn Nam, là duy trì làm cốm quanh năm.

Theo truyền thống các cụ để lại, cốm làng Nông Xá được làm từ lúa nếp cái hoa vàng, loại có hạt thóc to đẹp và rất thơm. Những người già trong làng bảo "thóc làm cốm phải nguyên chất lúa nếp cái, chỉ cần lẫn ít lúa tẻ là vứt, mất hương".

Thóc được phơi khô, cất trong bao. Trước khi đem đi làm cốm, thóc được ngâm nước, rửa sạch, đãi trấu rồi cho vào chảo gang rang. Bằng kinh nghiệm lành nghề, người thợ sẽ ước lượng được khi nào thóc chín tới để đổ ra cối giã. Thóc rang được giã đều tay đến khi vỏ thóc bung ra thành chấu còn hạt gạo thành cốm thơm mùi nếp chín. Cốm được giã 15 phút rồi đổ ra xảo để sảy, loại bỏ vỏ trấu thành cốm mộc. Cốm bán được nhiều nhất vào tháng 8, tháng 9 âm lịch hằng năm, số lượng đạt “đỉnh” vào dịp rằm Trung thu.

Quy trình làm cốm cứ liên tục khiến người thợ phải ngồi một chỗ liên tục cạnh bếp lò hồng rực nhiều giờ đồng hồ. Tiết trời thu dịu mát heo may mà người thợ vẫn nhễ nhại mồ hôi, mặt thì bám đầy bụi cám.

Có lẽ nghề làm cốm ở Nông Xá vất vả, lại theo thời vụ nên đang dần mai một. Gần chục người trong 2 lò cốm ở thôn Nam toàn là người già. Đưa tay vốc một vốc cốm lên mũi hít hà, ông Nguyễn Văn Đê ngậm nùi: “Sau này chúng tôi yếu đi, có lẽ nghề truyền thống các cụ để lại cũng mất thôi” .

Dưới đây là những hình ảnh phóng viên Thanh Niên ghi lại quá trình làm cốm mộc ở làng Nông Xá:

Cốm được làm từ loại nếp cái hoa vàng thơm ngon nhất - Ảnh Lê Tân

Thóc trước khi mang đi làm cốm sẽ được ngâm qua nước Ảnh Lê Tân

Những hạt thóc lép sẽ được loại bỏ - Ảnh Lê Tân

Thóc sẽ được rang trong chảo gang khoảng 10 phút Ảnh Lê Tân

Thóc được rang chín rồi cho vào cối giã 15 phút. Người thợ sẽ phải luôn tay đảo thóc để vỏ vỡ thành trấu còn hạt dẹp thành cốm - Ảnh Lê Tân

Việc rang và giã cốm đòi hỏi người thợ phải ngồi làm liên tục nhiều giờ đồng hồ Ảnh Lê Tân

Việc làm cốm tạo ra rất nhiều bụi cám, ông Bùi Văn Tuyển phải đeo kính, mũ để bảo vệ - Ảnh Lê Tân

Cốm sau khi được giã 15 phút sẽ mang ra thổi cho bay hết trấu - Ảnh Lê Tân

Bà Nguyễn Thị May (60 tuổi, vợ ông Tuyển) phải sàng 2 lần để cho ra mẻ cốm mộc sạch nhất - Ảnh Lê Tân

Để tăng năng xuất, ông Nguyễn Văn Đê đã sáng chế ra máy giã và máy rang cốm - Ảnh Lê Tân

Nghề làm cốm vất vả lại chịu sự cạnh tranh của nhiều thứ quà bánh hiện đại nên đang dần mai một. Ở Nông Xá hiện nay chỉ còn 2 hộ làm cốm với toàn lao động lớn tuổi - Ảnh Lê Tân

Có lẽ, trong tươi lai không xa "hương cốm" làng Nông Xá sẽ chỉ còn trong ký ức - Ảnh Lê Tân

Lê Tân

Tìm kiếm:✨

  • Lê Tân, Nguyễn Văn Đê, Bùi Văn Tuyển, Người thợ, Nếp cái, Lê Tân Lê Tân, Nguyễn Ngọc Hà, Lúa nếp, Người già, Bánh đa, Hằng Năm, Lưu luyến, Sáng chế, Hải Phòng, Gạo nếp cái hoa vàng, Gió heo may, Rán vàng, Tắt bếp

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Tên

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Đọc Báo mới Mobile [Việt Nam Net, VNExpress, Bóng Đá 24h]: Báo Thanh Niên: Lưu luyến 'hương cốm' làng Nông Xá
Báo Thanh Niên: Lưu luyến 'hương cốm' làng Nông Xá
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Đọc Báo mới Mobile [Việt Nam Net, VNExpress, Bóng Đá 24h]
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